Historic and Cultural Textile and Apparel Collection

Thob Al Malak of red, saffron, and black vertical striped broadcloth with embroidery of silk couched with metallic threads

Title
Thob Al Malak of red, saffron, and black vertical striped broadcloth with embroidery of silk couched with metallic threads
LC Subject
ceremonial costume
Donor
Vestal, Grace
Description
Thob Al Malak of red, saffron, and black vertical striped broadcloth with embroidery of silk couched with metallic threads; round neckline with center-front slit and ties at neck; long sleeves flare at the ends; full-length, slightly flared at ends; square embroidery at center-front chest panel is called a "qabah" and embroidered watch-like designs at lower sides called "sa'at"; the pattern of triangular inserts on the sleeves and side panels is called "benayiq"; traditional Bethlehem wedding dress.
Motif
Geometric patterns; clock motif; flower pot motif
Work Type
wedding dresses
Location
Bethlehem >> West Bank >> Palestine >> Middle East >> Earth
Date
1930/1939
Identifier
1965.001.001
Rights
In Copyright
License
Creative Commons: Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International
Type
Image
Format
image/tiff
Material
Broadcloth; Silk
Technique
Embroidery; couching and hand; Straight arm seam; No shoulder seam
Set
Historic and Cultural Textile and Apparel Collection
Primary Set
Historic and Cultural Textile and Apparel Collection
Institution
Oregon State University
Note
Wedding dress from Bethlehem; in this area, each city has its own style and pattern of dress. The watch pattern (sa'at) is the most represented design in Bethlehem. This dress is characteristic of early 20th century. The donor, Grace Vestal, was in Jordan in 1953 as the chairman of a welfare committee to help Palestinian refugees. Her group set up a shop to sell locally handcrafted items. They had initially thought of calling the shop the Women's Exchange; however, the Muslim men thought that it was a shop where they could exchange their wives. Rather the shop was called Handicraft Center. The shop was located in Amman. This dress was brought in by a woman who had made it and worn it at her own wedding. She was a Palestinian refugee living in Bethlehem.As a result of a phone call to Mrs. Vestal (Feb. 1980) it was learned that there is also a jacket that goes with this dress; the donor is hanging on to it for the time being. The jacket is typically worn with the dress.Resources: Embroidering Identities: A Century of Palestinian Clothing by Iman and Maha Saca, and Palestinian Costume by S. Weir