Convent sampler of a variety of open-work lace stitches with a blue silk back that shows through; eight blocks show different patterned open-work and Ajour lace.
Handbag (re-purposed from the sleeve trim from a woman's garment) of heavy-weight natural cotton with trim along the top portion of solid embroidery in red, dark blue and white cotton; design of figured bands ending in triangles feather edged; zig-zag, dots, arrows; embroidery does not extend all the around the bag as the underarm portion of the sleeve was left undone; metal eyelets; no straps.
Textile fragment from a rug of red, green, black and beige cut wool with brushed out fringe; pattern of pinwheels with tiny floral motifs in a black open-diamond.
Pouch of natural woven linen needlepoint embroidered in an open-mesh of nine floral sprays of pink with black center and purple with yellow center flowers with black stems with green filled leaves; floral sprays alternate and have three of the same flowers on each spray except for the top left spray which has one purple flower and two pink flowers; drawstring closure at top; bottom of bag is embroidered with smaller flowers.
Handbag (re-purposed from the sleeve trim from a woman's garment) of heavy-weight natural cotton with heavy textural embroidery in black silk; solid embroidered band along the top with distinct motifs dipping down in straight lines separated by open space; two braided cord stripes create a short handle.
Textile of red, orange, lavender, pale chartreuse and black hand-spun, woven goat hair solid embroidery on heavy woven cotton or linen; design of stripes alternating with figured, geometric bands.
Circlet (Agal) of black camel hair cord wound around a round padding; double looped type worn by Judea shepherds and laid on the top of the head to hold the head scarf in place; thick rope circlet; menswear.
Detachable Cuff of tightly gathered off-white linen held by all-over tiny stitches in red creating a smocking effect; embroidered in geometric patterned lines in red, orange, yellow, green and black wool creating a heavy raised design; one edge has ruffles trimmed in buttonhole stitch of alternating colors; tiny mother-of-pearl buttons and fabric loop fasteners.
Jacket of yellow silk, cotton embroidered in a large ornate floral design with green stems and flowers in red, pink and blue; one panel of the jacket is glazed; may have been pieced from other textiles; open-front; wide, short sleeves have pleats at shoulder; jacket is trimmed in a striped band.
Set of 8 traditional towels (Tenuqui) of very fine plain woven ivory cotton with stencil print in shades of blue with slight varying designs of flowers, birds, bamboo, and water; ends are sewn; sides are unfinished. Popular during the Edo Period (1603 to 1868). Chusen Tenuqui - print method.
Textile panel from an Obi of beige, browns, ecru, and grey-blue silk brocade in detailed repeat pattern of plants, flowers, squares, and other designs; muted shades; intricate lines in designs.
Textile panel (probably from an obi) of ecru silk damask with a pattern of masks overlapping in S-curves through the length of the textile; some of the masks have been hand-brocaded in metallic threads and black and red silk; masks face in opposite directions from the center suggesting this is a portion of an obi.
Table Scarf of brocaded satin in grey, brown, orange, lavender, pale green and white in a scene of the Nikko Temple, a famous shrine in Japan, with trees in the background; needlework fringe trim all four sides of the small square textile.
Shawl of fine woven natural wool hand-painted with very detailed all-over patterned bands of prayer-niche architectural designs with plant and cone motifs; stylized designs at each inner corner; main colors of warm reds, mustard yellow, black, blues, and orange; tiny fringed edges; square shape.
Textile Panel (part of sleeve) of light blue taffeta brocaded with stripes of dashes of white and shaded dashes in red fading to yellow; vine with tiny roses at center; patterned stripes in green, reds, pinks.
Slipper booties of red-orange, black, white, green and purple geometrically patterned wool with accents of metallic threads; soft pointed toe of red and rust triangular stripe pattern with upper part of foot in a triangular-diamond pattern in black, white, red and bright green; part around ankle has a more intricate pattern, is more tightly woven, and includes metallic threads; design of patterned squares in diamond; zig-zag; 4 1/2" shaft.
Wall Hanging (made from half of a shawl) of fine ivory silk brocaded with black silk or cotton in a lace-like design of vines with leaves and pomegranates; edges are trimmed in 3/4" fringed braid of black silk.
Handbag (re-purposed from the sleeve trim from a woman's garment) of heavy-weight natural cotton embroidered in browns with accents of pale pastel colors of silk; vertical bands of solid embroidery with decorative motifs between; triangles with feathered edges along top; solid embroidery uses texture to create zig-zag and triangular patterns; two braided cord straps of black, green and red make a handle.
Towel of hand-spun, hand-woven linen with blue and red laid-in weaving; 7" border design at each end and five separate motifs decorate the length of the towel on each side; typical Cretan pattern and colors.
Tapestry hanging of hand-woven off-white silk with a landscape pattern with trees, gazebo, and mountains in grey-greens, blues, browns, and grey with black and gilded gold outline; fringe at top. The Kesi weaving technique came to Japan from China in the 1400's. The Chinese used shuttles of separate bobbins of threads to weave the designs. The Japanese used their fingernails to weave, sometimes they would serrate the edges of their nails to aide the process. The Japanese called the technique tsuzure-ori "nail weaving" or fingernail weave. More information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%27o-ssu
Pillow Sham of woven metallic threads, shades of wine red silk and cotton and brown cotton; one end is sewn closed of grey and orange cotton; design of intricately patterned, geometric horizontal bands.
Jabot yoke panel of cotton or linen and lace; fabric is pleated into a square panel and pleats release to the outer end; center has an opening that is trimmed in embroidery and filled with a light woven lace; half circular shape is trimmed in floral woven lace.
Cape of ecru wool felt with floral, paisley, swirl and medallion embroidery of couched metallic silver threads; neckline has a large ribbon bow at back of ecru satin trimmed in woven metallic thread band with long ribbon ends releasing at the neckline and falling past the hemline.
Paper cut art of brown paper in a vine with elongated leaves and a check patterned ground; design is constructed of horizontal cuts; paper is backed on cotton fabric covered over cardboard.
Textile Trim (from a woman's garment) of heavy-weight natural cotton with solid embroidered band in cerise, pale olive, golden yellow, pale pink and dark taupe floss; design of blocks forming bands in a plaid-like design with zig-zag edges and curled hook trim; band is 3 3/4" deep.
Palampore of natural muslin block printed and painted with a Garden of Paradise design at center (tree with plants, birds, and animals) surrounded by a border of floral-shrub motifs with birds and wild cats; main colors of golden yellow, blues, orange, and dark grey; colors have a washed watercolor look; two widths of fabric are sewn together at center, and expertly matched.
Tray Cover of off-white linen with single line embroidery in a blue floral design; design trims the edge in a scrolling floral band; four corner designs and one design in center; some threads are couched; edge is trimmed with a blue zig-zag stitch.
Textile fragment of ivory silk floral brocade with a geometric drawnwork motif at the lower center; scalloped at the hem; hem is finished, other edges are raw.
Textile Panel of soft blue ground with horizontal bands of various floral and plant motif patterns in apricot, black, clay, grey-white, and soft lemon yellow. Shows Persian influence.
Textile panel of deep red velvet with a darker red print of an ornamental design with two exotic birds facing each other; design has a wrought iron-work look; fleur-de-lis spade.
Hat of solid embroidery in metallic threads with centered tassel on crown; stripes and figured band separate a large floral paisley design; cardboard inner.
Textile trim from a sleeve of white cotton with floral patterned embroidery in bright pink, orange, red, pale chartreuse, grey and black wool; solid embroidery; band of bird and heart shape motif alternates with four petal flower motif.
Towel of very fine, hand-woven cotton crepe with a 5 3/8" embroidered band at each end; embroidery is exceedingly fine - on both sides; design of flowers and vines in gold and silver metallic threads and green, blue, orange, off-white and pink silk; outlined design of plants interweaving with gold ribbon with bows; design is trimmed along the edge with scalloped gold embroidery.
Textile fragment of brown silk satin brocaded in an all-over pattern of floral plants in green, salmon pink, pale yellow and ecru blocked in medallions of floral leaves in ecru silk; intricate design.
Textile fragment of metallic gold, pale blue, fuchsia, and white silk brocade; twill woven metallic gold fabric with pale blue scrolling vines with flowers in bright violet, fuchsia, and white.
Scarf (half) of hand-woven deep red cashmere with a 22" band of tapestry woven paisley/floral designs; three large cone/paisley motifs filled within, and around, by tiny floral motifs; very detailed; borders at top and bottom of scrolling design; two stylized floral designs in corners above the 22" section; edged in a floral ribbon band; fringe at finished end.
Sampler of natural linen embroidered in the alphabet, numerals, animals, birds, human figures, flowers and other small motifs; colors are tans, browns, blue, pink and gold; unfinished section in lower left corner.
Dress of ivory striped silk with scoop neckline; short, puffed sleeves with ribbon cuffs and accents; high, empire waistline with gathering below bust; full-length skirt with dipped hem; ribbon embellishments at sides near hem; drawstring closures at back neckline and empire waist; vertical stripes of chevron patterned satin and lightweight, see-through silk.
Roundel (looks like a coaster) of hot pink silk brocade with circle pattern of leaves in yellow and metallic threads; in each circle is a violet, light blue and gold paisley or flower sprig motif; brocade is trimmed around the edge with stitched violet and chartreuse threads and finished with green fringe; backed with white cambric.
Textile Fragment of natural woven linen with three cross-stitch embroidered ornate, architectural designs in natural dyes of beige, dark orange and olive green; design motif might be a Mosque.
Towel of cotton or linen crepe embroidered at the ends in 3 floral leaf medallions in metallic threads; edge is trimmed in a band of metallic threads and finished in a 2" knotted warp fringe.
"Panung" Skirt of red woven ribbed silk taffeta with side borders of green and violet; the center is covered with an all-over gold diaper pattern and is surrounded by various borders throughout the entire textile; borders are filled with metallic gold brocade in conventionalized floral, vine, and shrub designs that alternate between thinner bands of geometric patterns. The textile is wrapped around the body with excess fabric folded into pleats at front and held in place with a belt. This panung would have been worn by royalty.
Table Runner or Wall Hanging of a prayer niche made from the embroidered ends of old towels and scarves, all of natural linen backed on cotton; embroidery is of silk, gold and silver metallic threads; fragments are skillfully pieced together to form a unified pattern; center has a floral design with bands of various designs in red, greens, pinks, blues and yellows.
Wall Hanging of hand-woven linen embroidered in multi-colored twisted silks in various floral designs; linen strips are skillfully sewn together; vines are outlined in black; tulips, carnations, and pomegranate blossoms are in violets, reds, gold, blue, and deep green.
Tea Cloth of white linen with red embroidery; embroidery of a fine line image of a woman with a tree behind her and a banner along the lower part with words in German; bottom is trimmed in fine stitched lace.
Textile Panel of red, light red and black hand-spun and hand-woven goat hair; textile of solid embroidery on natural cotton in geometric blocks with cross within; rows of blocks are separated by figured bands; very detailed embroidery.
Textile panel from a blouse of woven natural cotton with solid embroidery in red with accents of black in geometric designs and star motifs in bands; design is in a prayer-niche shape.
Handbag of heavyweight, hand-spun, hand-woven natural white cotton with a 4 7/8" solid embroidered band trim along the top in a geometric pattern with linear designs in red and blue; bag has been repurposed from a portion of a sleeve, the underside of which was not fully embroidered, giving the handbag a design only part way around; bag has braided cord straps in an orange and blue twist.
Reticule handbag of mustard yellow (turmeric) tatted lace with drawstring closure; bottom of bag and ends of drawstring are finished with a fan-shaped cup; intricate open-work design; coin purse.
Palampore of natural muslin with all-over block print of a center medallion surrounded by scrolling flowers and a quarter medallion in each of the four corners; border of a floral pattern blocked by two blue borders with a motif pattern; main colors of orange, yellow, blue, pink, and green; square shape.
Textile Sampler of linen with fine silk embroidery in figured bands, and fine pulled work; geometric motifs in bright crimson, green, peach, and yellow; cross stitch work; sampler from a Spanish man's convent.
Part of a cap of dark red silk with embroidered plant-like shapes in green, orange, dark blue and red; bottom is trimmed with chain stitch embroidery and mirror-work; upper part is trimmed in paired shapes that resemble chess pieces in satin stitch.
One-half length of a hand-woven scarf of multi-colored, horizontally striped silk; warp is magenta and forms a 5 1/2" fringe at the one end; main colors of fuchsia, blue, yellow, olive, cerise and black; stripes vary in width from pin stripe to 1" stripe.
Textile Trim (from a woman's garment) of cotton or linen heavily embroidered in bands of geometric linear designs in violet and purples on a dark brown embroidered ground with accents of embroidered lines in beige and grey.
Textile fragment of ecru and taupe cotton/silk damask brocade in a lively floral design in deep orange and greenish-grey silk; design of stylized flowers and curving leaves with some of the fill of designs having texture; from a man's coat.
Fragment trim from a border of a sari of black satin with embroidered design of peacocks and floral sprays in pale pink and lavender in a knot stitch; similar to Peking knot stitch.
Child's blouse of faded red silk decorated in embroidery work without mirrors; designs of shapes and flowers are composed of embroidered circles, squares and triangles in navy, green, yellow and dark orange; designs are outlined in an intricate patterned stitch of natural white; round neckline with side fabric ball and loop closure; short sleeves.
Skirt of ivory-beige silk with Leno pattern weave with embroidered design at lower portion in blues and white with touches of green, orange, golden yellow, and couched metallic copper threads in in design of iris, butterfly, and flowers; center-front and center-back panels are blocked in black silk and embroidered flowers; wrap-style closure with loops at waistband; 10" wide waistband of muslin; sides are pleated with black band trim and tiny embroidery.
Pair of sleeve bands of white silk satin with embroidered landscapes with human figures and architectural details, fence, boat, bamboo tree, pine tree, lotus, bird, moon, tea kettle, fan in satin stitch; appears to be a black ink border.
Kimono robe of light-medium blue patterned silk damask (maybe Leno) with black silk trim; very wide sleeve opening; appliqué border; Chinese knot buttons; concealed inner patch pocket.
Pillow cover of pale green satin embroidered with birds and vines with flowers and bamboo in pastel shades of purple, peach, magenta, olive and pale pink.
Tools for Bandhani tie and dye process wherein tiny dots of silk are puckered and tied to create an all-over design of dot texture: a) Brass ring with point - to fit on fingertip. b) Spool of fine pale blue thread. c) Glass tube of 12mm length and 1.5mm width - size of a bugle bead.
Shawl (fragment) of mostly orange and reds with blues, grey, white, and black cashmere tapestry woven in a very detailed all-over design of diagonal floral vines (vines have the characteristic rigid-branch look) and paisley pattern; two corners have medallions of geometric floral patterns (one is mostly red, the other mostly off-white); one end has a stitched on border of floral, geometric pattern.
Textile panel of woven silk and metallic threads in K'o-ssu tapestry weave with a warrior riding on a horse with a spear and another figure with his arms raised appearing to cheer him on; mountain landscape; flower at the top; colors of medium blue, green, peach, and grey; panel is trimmed with a band of black cotton. The word Kesi translates to "cut silk" as the separate areas of color are woven into the warp with separate bobbins of thread. This hand-weaving technique requires a great deal of precision and patience. The final piece is lightweight and if done with skill has the same finish on both sides. Most of these Kesi Tapestries are of pictorial scenes, some are copies of paintings, which are first brush sketched onto the warp threads then woven. More information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%27o-ssu
Fan of white silk with colorful embroidery of birds perched on twigs with floral motifs; black enameled, circular wood frame with handle of same; two tassels at bottom with Chinese knot; embroidery is done in a satin stitch and is exactly the same on both sides.
Dragon Robe from the late Qing (Ch'ing) Dynasty of blue silk with browns, ecru, green, and black symbols and designs; nine 5 clawed dragons with bats, waves, clouds, gourds, conch shells, swastikas, fish, and other symbols of luck and fortune; round neckline; robe has been altered to have a center-front closure; button and loop closures with all buttons missing; slit at front and back; lined in different silks.
Textile panel of silk brocade in blue, pink, olive and green ornate floral pattern on ecru ground; conventional design of rosettes, conventional leaves and scrolling motif.
Armrest cushion of woven beige/taupe silk ground with cool grey, lilac, bright red, brown, peach, ecru, and black silk embroidery in floral and lotus motif set in a central square with a blocked outer square; hexagonal shape with 9" sides.
Table scarf of orange silk embroidered in satin stitch in multi-colored silks in sprigs of flowers, female phoenix, moon (white), sun (dark orange) amid cloud motifs; central design is framed by a black braided cord outside of which, features different flowers in each corner; backed on chartreuse green silk.
Civil Rank Badge of silk and couched metallic threads w/ 9th rank Paradise Flycatcher surrounded by Buddhist emblems; background of couched gold threads; seed stitch or Peking knot embroidery in the design; front; worn by a male.
Baby's kimono-style coat of yellow, silk satin brocade with blue satin trim around neckline and opening; brocade design of dragon medallions and flower pots; long sleeves with horse hoof cuffs trimmed in same blue satin; fasteners of Chinese knotted loops and brass pierced buttons; lined in cotton.
Textile panel of purple satin with embroidered potted flowers in a rectangular vase of multi-colored silk in a Chinese knot stitch or seed stitch with couched thread outline; backed on blue linen.
Short jacket of tan silk damask patterned with floral motif and swastika; accented with embroidery of sprays of flowers including roses and lotus blossoms, and potted flower medallions at center-front and back, and on shoulders; round neckline is trimmed in brocade ribbon; short, kimono sleeves are trimmed in brocade ribbon and finished with ecru satin damask embroidered sleeve bands with female figures in a garden scene at the edge of a courtyard; Chinese knot closures at center-front of black satin cord; side slits and hem are finished with brocade ribbon; embroidery in blues, greens, pinks, golds and white; brocade ribbon in purple, blue, green and ecru.
Skirt of ecru silk embroidered with flowers, lotus, butterflies, 8 Buddhist symbols, Taoist Immortals in satin stitch and Peking knot stitch; center-front and center-back panels are finished in appliqué trim, embroidery, and black satin banded borders; panels are heavily embroidered at lower portion at 9
Skirt of yellow silk satin with trim of black satin, ribbon appliqué, and embroidered borders; embroidery of flowers and butterflies in blues, black, and white with copper metallic threads; center-front and center-back panels are heavily embroidered at lower portion at 8
Table cover of corded dark blue-purple silk brocade with metallic gold design, and gold lace trim; design of filigree, floral, cloud motif in a small scale, delicate all-over pattern; backed on dark blue-purple silk satin.
Children's boots of red satin embroidered with flowers in satin stitch in blues and white; black pipe satin trim; platform soles are off-white in color and are 1" height and made of layered paper with a finish layer of white leather; toes are squared; lined.
Textile Panel of woven orange silk satin ground framed in olive silk damask with band trim of beige damask; four 5-clawed imperial dragons with flaming pearl, clouds and emblems over wave designs; main colors of brown, red, pink, blue, and white; backed on beige cotton (or linen).
Civil Rank Badge of silk and couched metallic threads w/ 5th rank Silver Pheasant (appliqued) surrounded by Buddhist emblems; border of bats and Shou character; front jacket badge; worn by a male.
Civil Rank Badge of silk and couched metallic threads w/ an appliqued 5th rank Silver Pheasant on tan gauze of couched metallic threads detailed with red couching; brown silk background with blue satin stitched leaf pattern outlined in gold couched thread; bamboo tree on left of bird and pine tree on right; border of dragons facing round shou symbol with vine tendrils; backed on blue silk; worn by a female; front badge.
Textiles bands of ecru silk satin with multi-colored embroidery of female figures outdoors with garden, gazebo, pine tree, bird, butterfly and other outdoor architecture; main colors are violet, blues, peach, taupe, purple and greens.
Textile fragment of couched brown cord with satin stitch embroidery of elongated leaves in green silk with sparse colors of rust and yellow worsted yarns; backed on natural fabric.